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Bozeman Ice Festival
By: Jeff Shapiro
Back to Montana....
Each winter season, one of the things I look forward to most is the chance to attend one of the various Ice Festivals around the country. To celebrate our passion for ice climbing and alpinism, several of the outdoor industry's best gear companies come together to sponsor events which bring people to popular ice climbing venues so they can demo the "newest/latest" in equipment. Some of those companies also ask their sponsored athletes and ambassadors to attend and provide stoke and instruction during the festival. Clinics such as "beginning ice climbing", "intro to mixed climbing", and "women's ice climbing".... among many more.... are made available and usually fill up within minutes of being posted online before each scheduled event.
This year, I was lucky to be invited to the Bozeman Ice Festival by Rab, Camp, and Lowa.... all amazing companies I'm fortunate to work with, to teach some clinics and connect with friends, old and new.
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To get the party started, I flew into Montana early to get some imagery of new Rab products, and to have the opportunity to get some climbing in before the clinics started. When I arrived in Bozeman, Ross, Annalee, Sarah, Marcus, Molly and my brother from a different mother, Chris Gibisch were all waiting with smiles and stoke. Obviously, I couldn't wait for the next morning's early "alpine start".
We headed up to a familiar route in Hyalite canyon and took some laps on the mellow, but steep ice of the "Scepter" which was in great condition. Pro-photographer, Mia Watt captured moments while at the same time, we were able to try out some of the newest line from Rab. I'm always super impressed with their technical outerwear and feel so lucky to be in their gear while climbing. Many of us at KAVU stay warm in Rab and they're worth checking out if you're passionate about "getting after it" in the mountains.
Smiles for Miles
After our day of "work", Ross, Chris, Marcus and I went out to one of the ultra-classics of the Canyon: Chloe's Needle. It was in great shape and climbed well with sticky ice and good gear.
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A couple days later, the Festival kicked off and people poured into the parking lot to find their clinics and gather for a fun day of climbing and instruction. I connected with legendary climber, Carlos Buhler to teach a group "Beginning Ice" course. Another legendary climber and friend, John Roskelley decided to join our group for the day to help out, which made it a lot more fun for both Carlos and I.
I couldn't help but wonder if the clinic participants knew they were being taught by two of the most influential and respected alpinists of multiple generations. Carlos and John are both experienced and kind.... and fierce in the big mountains. It was an honor to be there with them and of course, to connect with the awesome people who came to our clinic to learn more about moving up frozen waterfalls.
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In between clinic days, I took the opportunity to just "go climbing" with one of my best friends on the planet, Chris Gibisch. Nearly ALL of the most memorable experiences in my climbing-related life have been partnered up with Chris. From China/Tibet to India and Alaska.... we have so many memories laughing, suffering, succeeding and failing together and so much of climbing with Chris is.... for me.... what climbing is all about. Deep friendships and a commitment to doing our best.
We used our "day off" to walk up to the "Unnamed Wall" to chuck a couple of laps on a route neither of us had done called, Roman Candle Stick. It was super fun and didn't disappoint.
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My last day of the trip was designated to teach an "Intermediate Ice" course to a group of nine super-stoked climbers who'd traveled to Bozeman from all over the country. I was pleasantly surprised that each one of them was quite competent and had a strong base skill set, which made for a fun day of progressing from basic movement and efficiency.... learning more about the medium and how to read ice..... to practicing safe leading techniques.
By the end of the day, each had climbed a bunch of pitches and made visible improvements. But most of all.... it seemed like they had fun. I know I did! One of the coolest parts of these types of events for me is connecting with unique and passionate people. Far more than the climbing, learning as much from them as they learn from me is a privilege I look forward to. In this way, the Bozeman Ice Festival definitely lived up to my expectations.
Hope to see you all next season or, somewhere out in the mountains!!
More KAVU days!!
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