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Crystal Clear
By: Jeff Shapiro
Poor weather requires inspiration
What do you do if the plan is..... to go climb ice deep in Glacier National Park with friends, while raining and nearly 40F degrees outside?
Well..... of course you watch a classically bad (but so good) climbing flick. "K2" is the cheesiest kind of motivational comedy I've watched in a long time and yet, I can't believe I'd allowed so much time to pass since the last time I'd seen such cinematic history.
Turned out, "K2" indeed gave us on-liners to quote all day, assuring good humor, at the very least;-)
It's all about the approach
Climbing in Glacier has always been a benchmark climbing experience that's qualified as training for anywhere in the world. And, getting to spend another day questing for some good adventure with this crew made the weather inconsequential.
Kelly Cordes, Justin Woods and Chris Gibisch are all climber's climbers. Dominating characteristics like good humor, classic self-deprecation while being tough as nails makes being in the mountains with these guys something I always feel lucky for.
Surprise!
It was so socked in, we literally had to ski to the base of the wall to see what ice was formed up. But, when the white vale was lifted, we were pleasantly surprised to find blues and greens frozen in place on a big, steep and intimidating wall. Exactly what we came for.
The ice looked fierce and it took some K2 humor to get motivated in the "Scottish" conditions. But, the ropes came out and it felt good to swing the tools on the high walls of the Park...... Even if our views were less than revealing;-)
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Kelly is a friend, and one of the best climbers and writers I know. I have respect for not just his talent, grit and accomplishments but, most of all his humility, humor and grace. He's one of the most approachable "bad Mo Fo's" I've ever met and besides having done some of the wildest new routes in Alaska and the Himalaya, he apparently makes a mean margarita. Which, comes in handy.
I'd climbed with Kelly a few times but never on the same rope so, it was cool to tie in and do a route neither of us had ever done. "Cerebral Aqueduct" is a route that was first done in 2005 (I think) by Chris Gibisch and Gabe Boisseau and was one of the last routes on this wall I hadn't done so, I was super stoked to climb it with Kelly while Chris was up there with us.... to heckle us, of course;-)
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Chris and Justin worked on a potential new route. They had an awesome day yelling a multitude of bad movie quotes back-n-forth and, inspired a trip back up there sooner than later.
All in all, for me.....it was another stellar and lucky day in the mountains with 3 stellar dudes.
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