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death valley?

By: Cora Kellerman

By KAVU

October 22^nd, 2019

thursday

I wasn’t sure what day it was, but I knew I needed to be out of the house in 40 minutes. Flipping my wall calendar to the right month would be a start. Thank you, Hippy Tree 52 Weeks of Nature Calendar and... hello October!

The calendar has 4 stunning photos for the month of October. Picture number 3 grabbed my attention immediately: a very free man running through a deserted and wide open valley. No lie, it looked pretty good. And I’m not just talking about his back side. I looked at the caption… Death Valley. Death Valley? I hopped on my google maps to throw a wet finger into the wind and gauge just how long it would take to get to this Death Valley. 4 hours 27 minutes. Not bad at all. Doable even if time were limited.

Hamster OFFICIALLY on the wheel!

The hamster and its wheel is my general analogy for curiosity, paired with imagination. And for myself, the smallest of things can put the animal into motion. A conversation, a song, something I’ve read, or in this case, a photo of a naked man – nevertheless, it sparks an idea and I quickly become fixated on bringing it to life.

I went to work that afternoon and the hamster continued to pick up speed. When I got word that I didn’t need to come in on Friday, the RPM’s on the wheel climbed into the red and my possibility grin began shaping into a "hell-yeah smile". I got off at about 8pm with Death Valley in the cross hairs. T-minus 6 hours until departure.

I dashed home, packed my rig (aka “Connie”… aka 2012 Ford Transit Connect, compact, reliable, fuel-efficient, and the best adventure-mobile I could ask for), and attempted to harness the excitement for a few hours of sleep.

Friday

2:00am, cue the alarm. 2:21am, we’re moving! Great playlist... no one on the road... easy sailing!

Roughly an hour and a half in, I lost cell service. Wanting to see where exactly I was, I reopened the maps application on my phone. My location would not load. I had taken a screenshot of the digital map and the step by step instructions prior to leaving, yet the pitch black combined with inability to fact check my course had me questioning if I had taken a wrong turn. My high beams were going off into the abyss. My gas tank was 80 miles until empty. The last time I had seen a sign for the next town was the last time I had seen another vehicle on the road… which come to think of it, was probably over an hour ago… Out here… in the middle of nowhere….

What I’d like to say was in a calm state of mind, I flexed every muscle in my neck, got my head craned out over the steering wheel, planted my nose about 2 inches from the windshield, and started looking around. What I saw was remarkable. Above me, the night was lit up and decorated like the tree in Rockefeller Center. Flocks of stars were shooting and shining, and not one inch of the sky seemed to be dark. Nothing around, zero light pollution. If anything was out here, it would have taken away from it. My weariness was replaced with gratitude and wonder.

came across a gas station a bit later with 10 miles to spare. COMPOSURE, gratitude and wonder. Hallelujah!

death valley?

Connie and I approached the base of Towne Pass just after 6am. Racing the morning, we climbed up to 6,000 feet and got our first view of Death Valley. The sun was crawling over the Amargosa Mountains to the east and casting a rich glow on the tips of the Panamint Mountains to the west.

death valley?

I have always found the snow to be rather quiet, but in comparison this place was SILENT. The air was motionless. The surrounding mountains were like the walls of a massive hyperbaric chamber, protecting and regulating the life within it.

The dry, open wilderness of the valley floor would only be shaded for a few more minutes. Time to get moving. We made the decent on Highway 190, and headed for Stop #1.

death valley?

stop #1: Mesquite sand dunes

In my minimal research of Death Valley, the Dunes were listed as a “must-see” and.... a “must-see” at sunrise. I pulled up to the parking lot, looked out across the rolling sand, and off in the distance I spotted my perch—a tall, lengthy mound with a distinct ridge line.

I took off my shoes, grabbed my backpack, and walked for about 45 minutes, up and down, and up and down, making my own tracks through the undisturbed sand. The satisfaction in leading a new path is unparalleled, and the anticipation of going somewhere I’ve never been is indescribably thrilling!

death valley?

I reached my perch and the panoramic view was something right out of a movie! I felt like I was in a galaxy far, far away…. pun intended: Star Wars Episode IV was filmed here! I pressed pause for a while to take it all in, then it was on to the next... and I noticed it was starting to get warm.

death valley?

death valley?

stop #2 & #3:

It’s in the park pamphlet so it must be alright.

About 25 minutes further on Highway 190, and we were parked in the lot for Zabriskie Point. I hopped out of the car and saw the sign reading: 100 yards to Zabriskie Point. Short and sweet, cool. I took a look ahead and saw a paved trail with two dozen people in Khakis and polyester. Off to the right, I saw another trailhead and sign reading: 3 miles one way via Gower Gulch to Golden Canyon. Not a person headed that way. Sold. Don’t get me wrong, I love khakis and polyester, but on to STOP #3.

I hustled back to Connie, swapped my slides for my Chacos, loaded the backpack with a gallon and a half of water, sunscreen’d up and set off. This gaping canyon was ever-changing. Daunting boulders, mosaic conglomerates, delicate curves, sculpted cliffs, narrow side canyons, smooth floors leading into loose scrambles, a plant-less and colorful terrain that was entirely unique in its allure.

The sun was directly overhead, I had hit the edge of Golden Canyon, warm was getting warmer. and it was time to make my way back up.

Up until this point in my life, I would say that I love the heat. I would even call myself a sun-worshiper.

About half-way up it felt like someone put me in a sauna. Then they turned up the dial. Then they asked me to put a sweater on. Then they lit a fire inside. Then they…

Is there any shade in this god-forsaken place?!!

death valley?

I found a small hole to take a quick time-out, wipe my brow, cool off and re-hydrate. A little shade and water makes for a new woman!

I ran into a gal a few minutes later who recommended that I take a side trail up to a ridge line for a great view. This “detour” was nothing shy of majestic. Everything that had me in awe as I made my way down could now be seen in one frame.

death valley?

My yogi mother always said that the only reason to practice yoga is so that you can do it on a mountain. And don’t forget to put your heart above your head. Duly noted, mother.... duly noted.

death valley?

stop #4: devil's golf course

Connie and I back-tracked on Highway 190 to hop on Highway 178 (Badwater Road), drove a few more miles past Artist Palette (jaw on our lap – see photo below), and hung a right down a long, clunky dirt road.

death valley?

The area surrounding the dusty washboard had a similar visual profile to that of an a lava field. The landscape was captivating, welcoming, yet untrustworthy and abrasive. The name “Devil’s Golf Course” was apropos.

death valley?

stop #5:

Badwater Basin!!

death valley?

Seeking more salt in our life, we headed for our final stop. The place that provoked it all, the skeleton of ancient lakes, sitting 282 feet below sea level, the lowest point in North America... THE Badwater Basin.

Miles upon miles of salted honeycomb crust, this was undoubtedly one of the most alien paintings I have ever seen. I was humbled, I was filled with reverence, and I was in near disbelief. Here I was, the ground crunching beneath my bare feet, walking towards an uncrowded horizon of what was nothing but an unfamiliar photo on my wall less than 48 hours ago.

death valley?

If I were to ask myself the question again, “Death Valley?”, the answer is YES!

Curiosity must be fed, “I’ve never been” always makes for a great case to go, and most of all… Death Valley is intoxicating in its beauty, inspiring in it’s resilience, deserving of admiration, and very, VERY much ALIVE!

There are lots more KAVU days ahead and I delight in the next time the hamster will get on its wheel.

In the meantime...... cheers to taking care of what we love!

KAVU DAYS AHEAD!!

death valley?

Footnotes

Cora Kellerman is a KAVU lifestyler who's definitely living a KAVU life in good style!

FootNotes

Cora Kellerman is a KAVU lifestyler who's definitely living a KAVU life in good style!

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