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Mentawai Islands
By Jeff Shapiro
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Having surfed on and off for decades, but never really committing because of my dedication to the mountains..... my family and I finally made the full-time move to the coast a few years ago. Part of our reason came from desired growth, changes in perspectives and of course, the wilderness provided by this raw coastline. Another major factor for me... was simply to be able to surf every day there's waves. It's become the passion in my life that provides peace, discipline and community.
So, when one of my oldest and best friends called to tell me that he was going on a boat trip to surf the Mentawai Islands with a group of friends from his home in Hawaii... and asked if I wanted to fill the last open slot.... F(@K YES was my obvious answer!
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Because Aaron had been to Indo multiple times, and had even been on this particular boat before, I felt super lucky for the invite and to get to experience surfing West Sumatra with one of my favorite humans on the planet.
The travel to the other side of the planet is long. Leaving Oregon, I traveled to LA, then endured the 17 hour flight to Singapore's elaborate airport.... then a quick jump to Jakarta where I met up with Aaron. We had to overnight there before another short hop to Padang, where we met up with the rest of the boys and shuttled to the harbor for the long crossing to the Ment's.
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Waking up to calmer seas.... made the travel seem like a minor price to end up in paradise.
Being a surfer who primarily paddles out in a 5/4 wetsuit, booties and a hood because of 50 degree water, I was psyched to have the warm ocean and warmer wind welcome us to spot after spot holding perfect waves.
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The crew on the Tengirri was all-time.
A super experienced captain to keep us all safe (and act as a talented photographer), one of the best surf guides in the area (this is his 21st season), two crew members who made it obvious that nothing was too much trouble and answered everything with a massive smile, and for sure.... the best chef in the Mentawai's. Donald's meals were off-the-hook. I'm pretty sure I gained 10 lbs on this trip from truly gourmet food that kept our energy levels up and surfing 2-3 sessions a day on the menu.
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Over our 12 days on the Tengirri, we surfed 13 waves and were lucky to have solid swell the entire trip.... a rarity on any surf trip.
Some days were bigger than others, but we all got our fill... and although I have some epic memories of super fun waves, it was so fun to watch my friends, new and old, absolutely ripping and in some rare cases, getting the barrels of their lives.
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Another really cool benefit of being on the boat (for me) was that when I was between sessions, watching people from our group and other boats was like a free clinic. Feeling the good vibes through hoots and whistles in the line-up and from the other boats when someone got blown out of a nice barrel inspired pure stoke. The waves, the lessons learned, and most of all, the company I was lucky enough to have was exactly what I'd hoped for on this trip.
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During some unique stops, we got a wave all to ourselves. Surfing with just our crew was special, for sure. But in most spots, there were a few other boats and we slowly got to know the other groups, sharing many line-ups with surfers from all over the world. Aussies, Israelis, Welsh, Brazilians, and even a couple other groups from Hawaii.... everyone surfed their faces off and shared this incredible place.
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Even now, sitting here typing.... a few waves stand out. I have a vivid memory of Shasha styling this perfect barrel at Thunders. And, of Mac making a clean drop on a wave at Bangkok's that the image below doesn't do justice to. The crew from Hawaii, most of whom I didn't know before this trip, welcomed me as one of their own and there wasn't a moment on this trip when I wished I was anywhere else. The older I get, the more I realize that.... that's what it's all about.
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Although we basically lived on the boat the entire 12 days, we did take opportunities between sessions to explore some of the remote beaches and islands to look for shells, or do some diving to check out the abundant fish on the reefs close to shore.
On any boat trip in the Mentawais, there's also apparently the need to stop and "check in" with local authorities, which requires some paperwork for the captain and allows an opportunity to fuel the boat. I'll admit, getting to walk on solid ground for a couple hours was welcome and experiencing a small town and their culture within the island community was a cool highlight.
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