On the Shores of Arabia by KAVU
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On the Shores of Arabia

By: Trevor Husted - Photos: Ryan Salm

KAVU
By KAVU

A Voyage through the fjords of the Musandam Peninsula

Two hundred and fifty feet, that’s it…two hundred and fifty feet and we will have completed our traverse across two inlets. That simple two hundred and fifty feet in elevation isn’t that much to gain until you start to take into account the multiple trips up a steep stone staircase combined with clunky bags filled with a dwindling water supply, cumbersome inflatable paddle boards and conveniently hot temperatures. All of a sudden that simple elevation gain just went up exponentially.

For our group of six, we sweat like thirsty pigs, perspiration douses every bit of clothing on our bodies and when we stop the exertion, dryness ensues and we are covered with stale salt from dipping in the tepid waters. I never envisioned myself navigating the waters of the Arabian Peninsula and I also never thought I would beg so much to find even the smallest sliver of shade.

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How six friends seeking adventure ahead of the FIFA World Cup that originally brought us altogether in 2010 got here is unbeknownst to me. For the main organizer, culprit, and journey planner, Ryan Salm, it was something he had envisioned for some time since finding out about the beauty of the area nearly a decade before. Somehow he coaxed us into a mission with promises of adventure.

Yet there was some comedy in a group of Americans paddling the waters of the Persian Gulf. Here we were layered in thin layers, ball caps, and sarongs to cover the majority of our pale bodies from the radiant sun; musical instruments stuffed into large dry bags accompanied with camping goods and clothes that sit like a clump of dirty laundry at the front of our polymer molded ships. Our dromedary bags filled with fresh drinking water and high hopes to cross through the two major inlets of the Musandam Peninsula in five to six days. It was hard to tell if we were a sight for sore eyes or just a little off of our rockers. Uncertainty was a beckoning – it was an adventure after all. The allure and the freedom of the open waters compelled us.

A photo in this story
A photo in this story
A photo in this story

To even be able to understand where the Musandam Peninsula is takes a little bit of geographical awareness. If one were to break down the word Arabia, it translates to something around the likes of a large peninsula or land sticking out into the sea. As we know it today, this area comprises seven nations (Saudi Arabia, Kuwait, Bahrain, United Arab Emirates, Qatar, Yemen, and Oman). At the end of this peninsula to the east is Strait of Hormuz, sandwiched between the Persian Gulf and the Gulf of Oman. Here is the Governorate of Musandam, a region governed by the country of Oman, even though the two are not physically connected.

For generations this area was home to the isolated Shihuh tribes who built a life around fishing and the land using the inlets and dramatic steep mountains of the Al Hajar (Al meaning ‘the,’ Hajar meaning ‘rock’ or ‘stone’) range to survive. The language - Kumzari, is a unique mix of Persian and Arabic, and has been said to be on the verge of extinction. Most of the areas in Musandam are only accessible by water and the strait sees nearly 20% of the world’s oil supply pass through annually.

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Amidst the bustle of the strait, hidden bays emerge and inlets glimmer with illuminated turquoise waters. Shaded shelves of coral reefs are home to elusive fish, lounging sea turtles, and curious dolphins that occasionally hover above the surface but only for a split second. Above these shores, high mountains climb in a dramatic fashion - columns of white striations, playful swirls compounded into the stone, cracks and divisions in the rock that dance along the eroded peaks telling a story of the millions of years of tectonic movement and collisions that shaped this region. To many a traveler this area is known as the Fjords of Oman.  

A photo in this story
A photo in this story
A photo in this story

As captivating as the scenery was, so was our journey. We camped on desolate beaches composed of white sands - a chorus of broken coral that chimed like bags of clanking rocks lulled us to sleep every night as the tides shifted. Each morning meant the routine of rigging up our boards for another day and another destination. Morning also meant calm waters and cooler temps. We would rise with the sun, the array of colorful hues would straddle the hazy horizon. There we would admire our friend, Pete as he cast his fly rod into the clear blue waters hoping for a bite as we lazily sat along the shores strumming banjo’s and guitar’s hiding in the shadows until the sun pierced our space and we were forced to hit the water for the day.

Whilst we explored the reefs, and marveled at the peaks that hung high in the dry sky, a majority of our days were spent seeking shelter from the powerful sun. We would find refuge in shade under perched stone ledges and in the confines of the desolate fishing villages that we discovered. Humans were virtually non-existent just empty homes, goats seemingly ran these areas. Goats like shade too and we would have to compete with them against the buildings and abandoned boats to acquire spots of shade.

A photo in this story
A photo in this story
A photo in this story

Most of our days on the water we rarely ran into other people, but when we did the impressions stuck. In the village of Qanah, there was Halil the helmsman who as he zoomed by us in his motor boat gave us an enthusiastic wave as he puttered off into the distance. Later we would approach his deserted village where motionless boats sat quiet in the harbor and mudded stone structures stood without roofs. From the top of the hill we heard a holler, Halil the jovial fisherman stood on the front lawn of one of the more established homes in the shanty village and motioned to us to come up. In his front yard smoke billowing from the dirt, two younger fisherman sat along the railing of the yard that provided a superb vista of the bay and town below.

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Halil spoke very broken English, but we were able to pick up on his gist and maneuvered great feats and theatrics to try and express ourselves. He had caught some fresh fish and we watched as he stuck them in the pit of sand, fiery wooden coals shearing their scales as he rotated them with a crooked wooden branch. As we played small talk the other two fishermen laughed at the benign humor that we presented with our dramatic gestures.

This was really our first true encounter with Omanese people since entering the fjords. It was surreal in a way and the hospitality and kindness that came forth was genuine. He summoned one of his greenhorns to fish up some water and within a couple of minutes he returned with miniature bottles of water and he offered up the cooked fish to our delinquent peeps, we regaled in the cuisine as in that instant we had only been fueled by dehydrated meals

A photo in this story
A photo in this story

For our seaborne crew this was not the end of the generous acts, while people and abandoned villages were few and far between we managed to find a proper village on one of our final days of the trip. The town of Al Hablayn, where there were no shops but there was visible evidence of people (we counted around five), a well established mosque, and a few cars (some functional, some on blocks) but no roads leading in or out.

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As we wandered aimlessly along the esplanade that led to the water, the shy town goer's acknowledged us, then continued on with their tasks. Per usual, we continued with our daily habit and took refuge in the shade of the sand colored mosque that held the skyline of the village. Most would refer to this act as loitering, for us the act had become our preferred method of lounging. Perhaps in this town they saw it as desperation?

Before we knew it, an elderly man dressed in traditional Muslim garb brought us tea, biscuits with GLUCOSE written on them in block letters, and boxes of those miniature water bottles that Halil introduced us to a few days prior. The act was a god send and we happily re hydrated from our prior water rationing mindset.

A photo in this story
A photo in this story
A photo in this story

Our encounters through the desolate waterways of Musandam were filled with unexpected kindness and a furthered bond within our crew. It didn’t matter that we looked like kooky scrubs in our salt-stained attire, or that we unconventionally decided to navigate inflatable paddle boards in a faraway land, or that we spoke a language much different from those whom we met.

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The experience was spirited in a greater connection to the land and the humans we encountered. For those brief five days we embraced the jaw dropping scenery of this pristine wilderness, we etched the echoes of our stories and music in the walls of these ancient hills, and we found adventure around every bend.

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A photo in this story

"Trevor is a guide and a writer with a great appreciation for what the world and different cultures offer. He calls the Sierra Nevada home but his roots lay in the Pacific Northwest. He is a proponent of skiing and split boarding in the winter and spring months, seeking out swell and tacky mountain biking trails in the summer and fall months, and promoting the KAVU lifestyle year round 24/7".

Trevor Husted

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Ryan Salm photography

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© 2025 KAVU

KAVU is an aviation acronym for “clear above visibility unlimited,” when there isn’t a cloud in the sky and you can see to the horizon. That limitless feeling is our guiding philosophy. It means treating every day like it’s special, and then getting out and doing whatever brings on the perma-grin. That’s KAVU.
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