We decided to start early after having rock fall not only pummel our proposed route, but also almost having a suitcase sized rock almost roll right through the door of our tent at the base. Hoping that the temps would stay cool enough to allow the face to remain frozen made it easy to get up and going
The climbing was interesting pretty early. Thin ribbons of ice that snaked up through the steeper rock bands broke up the longer stretches of calf burning ice slopes. Before it got light enough to see, we were rewarded for the early start by getting chased by a lightning storm on the horizon that flashed the sky every 3-5 seconds for more than 2 hours!
The clouds built and our energy was sapped. The sun had cooked us and the altitude made constantly panting pretty much mandatory. We were worked, but found one of the most unbelievable tent platforms on the corniced ridge line at 20,000' and were provided the most scenic "rooms for the night" that either Chris or I had ever experienced on a big alpine face. It was exactly what we needed
“ - is the power, the vital breath; that animates animals and humans. Pneuma is present even in lifeless materials like stone or metal as the energy that holds the object together- the internal tension that makes a stone a stone. All objects are thus a compound of lifeless substance and vital force.”
Another full day of climbing with the crux being 500' of rock that proudly guarded the summit slopes. Again, thin ribbons of ice were exactly where we needed them and after some cool rock climbing on warm, golden granite at almost 21,000', we finally had the summit in reach.
Soon, we could climb no higher and, although totally worked beyond words, Chris and I sat next to each other, smiling and on top of the world. We had just done the first ascent of the South Face and were the first two humans to stand on top of this peak in more than 35 years..... Happy indeed!
It wasn't until after midnight that we chopped seats in the ice and, semi hanging from ice screws, climbed into our bags with our boots on and started the stove. A long night with more lightning to keep us entertained led to another 2 full days of rappelling and descent before we could finally relax.
It will be a long time before this adventure ceases to continue to sink in. There was so much experienced that brought an increased perspective, so many lessons learned, that much of it will stay with us for the rest of our lives. Living in the present and taking each and every opportunity to meet the world with eyes and arms wide open is Alpinism. It's life at it's best, with best friends...........It's our KAVU life!
© 2026 KAVU
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