I LOVE using my long board out there on the smaller days. It’s a challenge to fit in the curve of the face, but when you get a good one, there’s nothing like it.
It doesn’t break often due to it’s angle on the coast and is even more fickle depending on the tides. So when it is breaking, you kind of get all giddy and feel like a kid in a candy store.
Over the years it’s tempted professional surfers from around the globe, and has proved as good training for the lucky locals who are able to dial it in.
Surrounded by friends out in the ocean...There isn’t anything better.
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